No matter where you go on the coast, wherever in the world it is, there are 2 versions of the place – on the ground and under the sea. In Los Cabos, where we currently are, above ground is marred by corruption (though we’re having a roaring good time, despite some of the darker things we’ve heard about) that I’ll detail that partoicular comedy at a later date. In the drink, however, there’s no such bullshit – just wild animals doing what they’re supposed to: try avoid you or eat you.
Diving’s a funny thing – some dives are good and some suck, the experience is just unpredictable. Yesterday, I was lucky to enjoy two of the best ever. We dived with Manta in Cabo San Lucas, and incredibly, were the only ones on the trip. We literally had the boat, guide and dive sites to ourselves. In the scuba world, this is a practically unheard of nirvana. Our guide, Luis, was bang on our wavelength, into ‘mellow hippo disco dives’ – i.e. relaxed, taking time to find critters, and have a childlike wonder at the expience.
One of the biggest attractions here is the sea lion dive – but any dive company would be lion (geddit!!?!) if they could guarantee a dive with them right now – the Pacific is being a bit of a moody teenage making entry to the area impossible. So when a huge young male emerged – it was incredible. Sometimes sea lions are playful and engaging – this one was hunting, still a wonder to hang out with.
Also here there are huge schools of fat snapper – biggest I’ve seen to date – a barbecuers dream, white tip reef sharks (we found one snoozing in a body-sized cave that I kind of got wedged in) and tons of other big, colourful schools like surgeon fish and goat fish.
A magical feature down here is the sand falls – sparkling, golden sands slipping down deep fissures like waterfalls – spellbinding. The site descends seriously deep; hypnotised, I drifted down, down, down, until I started to feel trippy – I was momentarily ‘narked’ off my bonce, high from nitrogen narcosis caused by my descent. If you’d asked me to add 1+1 (one of the tests on the deep dive exam) I would have answered ‘Susan Sarandon’ and giggled my way down a watery void. Recognising this, I quickly ascended to straighten up before committing a very merry suicide.
The drink was big and dark and a wee bit cold – and the visibility wasn’t too clear, either – but offered a liberating adventure with creatures who, on this occasion, had less desire to do us harm than many of the bipeds on the hard desert ground above.